Thessaloniki, the second city in Greece after Athens, delights and surprises. Close to the borders of Turkey, Bulgaria and North Macedonia, it exudes flair, character and dynamism from the diversity of ethnic groups that have touched this region. It also reputed to be Greece’s culinary and cultural capital. Three different visits to the city have not satiated my appetite for its charms. The city is the starting point for Rowing The World’s Northern Beach Paradise tour. It is also featured as an Independent Rowing Experience with Travel2Row, which gives you the opportunity to travel here when it suits you and in your own small group. So much to enjoy here, in addition to rowing. Here are a few of my favourite Thessaloniki travel tips.

Where to stay

Colors Urban Hotel is where we stay on our rowing tour. I love the stylish rooms and especially its perfect location. If you can get the Golden Boy suite at the very top of the second building, it is phenomenal with two private balconies. Many rooms feature unusual and massive bunk beds and a few sport hammocks. Of course, friendly staff are part of the charm. Relax on arrival in the bar on a pedestrian street facing the Jewish Museum – an immediate reminder of the city’s culture and history.

Best coffee

Drinking coffee is constant in this city. It seems that pretty much any café or restaurant or hole-in-the-wall bar offers excellent caffeinated beverages. My absolute fave was freddo espresso, basically a double shot beaten and frothed with ice cubes. Freddo cappuccino is also a good choice. For something sweeter, the frappe was surprisingly tasty with some sugar. Normally I am not a fan of instant coffee, which is used in the frappe, but I make an exception for this beverage. These drinks are great to grab and go, as well as savouring in a café. The coffee place of honour goes to traditional Greek coffee, brewed hot and strong in a briquette and served with a “sweet spoon” which is a stick full of sugar crystals. Definitely need to be sitting to fully appreciate.

Lunch or dinner

This is one big reason why I will be going back. The food is spectacular. Take what you think you know about Greek food and up it ten times. Make that a hundred times. An advantage of active holidays like rowing is that it fosters big appetites. Here are just a few places to find satisfaction:

• Tsinari Tavern is an “ouzerie” which takes its name from the neigbourhood of the old city where it has served up ouzo and complementary food since the 19^th century. Welcoming and off the beaten tourist track, it was one of my first introductions to the pleasures of Thessaloniki food.
• Modern and sophisticated, Charoupi (or Χαρούπι in Greek) serves up elegant small plates perfect for sharing. The wine list is exceptional. Reserve your table in advance then settle in to enjoy. Conveniently close to Colors Urban Hotel.
• The location of Kitchen Bar on the waterfront by the docks is superb. I especially like that you look out over the water, whether towards the Thermaic Gulf or back along the promenade of Leof. Nikos and the full sweep of the city.
• Seafood is amazing in Thessaloniki of course. But if you happen to be an ardent carnivore, Ta Tria Gourounakia is your go to spot. The name means three little pigs, but the décor and the cuisine are upscale and succulent. Also a convenient stagger from Colors Urban Hotel.

Wandering the city

My absolute favourite thing to do when travelling is to just start walking. Sometimes I have a destination in mind and the game is to find the least direct way there. But often, walking down streets that grab my attention or arbitrarily making a turn for a new direction without glancing at a map is enormous fun. You see so much when you leave the regular tourist haunts. Not that you should ignore them, since they are famous usually for good reason, but random wandering should also be part of your time in a city, to truly get a feel for it.

Thessaloniki is perfect for this activity. Begin with the waterfront, maybe stopping for a coffee and a little people watching in a café. The White Tower is Thessaloniki’s best-known landmark. Continue past the statue of Alexander the Great and onto the New Waterfront, a superb example of the urban architecture and renewal. Keep going to reach the Coastal Rowing Club and some more excellent restaurants.

Head inland, perhaps stopping at some of the cultural highlights noted below. Head up to the winding narrow streets of the Ano Poli, still demarcated by the portions of the old wall. Don’t worry about wandering for too far – you can always take the free bus back to the city centre.

Cultural attractions

There are so many! But my faves are:

• Museum of Byzantine Culture. Was it Y.B. Yeat’s poem that started my fascination with this period of history? Whether you are as keen as I am or not, this museum does it just right. Follow the designated route past well designed and informative displays. Delve as deep as you want or glean a sense of time and place.
• Palace of Galerius. The building itself is worth the visit, plus its varied history. The bonus for me on a recent visit was the display of Byzantine (again!) mosaics.
• Church of Agios Dimitrios. Among the multitude of magnificent churches, this one stands out, not least because it honours the patron saint of Thessaloniki. If you only visit one church make it this one.

While I am a great fan of independent, self-guided strolling, in Thessaloniki I met two historical walking tour guides who were exceptional in bringing the history of the city alive. Tasos Papadopoulos told stories of individuals, not just facts and dates. Julie Kavvada also did a remarkable job, especially since she spoke in both English and German to our group. Things have changed a bit with the pandemic, but you should be able to track both down through the Union of Tourist Guides Thessaloniki.

Shopping

Shopping is my absolute least favourite thing to do whether travelling or at home. Regardless I am practiced in finding compact and lightweight gifts that fit into your luggage, sometimes even if you just have carry-on. I returned from a spin through the markets of Thessaloniki with packets of herbs and a huge variety of yummy vacuum sealed olives. Donkey milk soap and hand lotions smelled divine, as did more conventional olive oil varieties. And those briquettes used to brew Greek coffee make shiny presents – socks stuff in quite nicely for the trip home.

There is one shop that I would like to make a beeline for when I am next in Thessaloniki. They have the most amazing honey tahini. But I can’t remember the name! Looks like wandering the streets will be in my future – what fun.

Reading Recommendations

Reading a great book before, during or after a trip enhances planning, enjoyment and reminiscing. Here are a couple to inspire you to visit this amazing city:

• Solinika, City of Ghosts by Mark Mazower. A compelling account of the multiple ethnicities that have contributed to the spirit of the city, so to speak.
• Some websites:
  • https://thessaloniki.travel/en/
  • https://www.lonelyplanet.com/greece 
  • https://www.roughguides.com/destinations/europe/greece/ 
  • https://www.greecetravel.com/thessaloniki/